What’s the secret to the surprising flavours of Aki’s Japanese cuisine? We would like to think that this magic we are trying to create starts in the kitchen, a place of intense focus, lots of creativity, and profound respect for Japanese cooking. It is our goal that every dish that leaves the Aki kitchen tells a story. It might be a story of innovation, tradition or just the story of the place with a quiet echo of our Maltese origins.
To understand what makes the Aki experience truly special, you have to understand the philosophy that drives it. During our
busy opening, we managed to get a rare moment with our Head Chef,
Mamadou Sankare, to discuss the unseen details, the creative process, and the one memory he hopes every guest carries with them as they step back into Cavendish Square. Here’s a look behind the scenes:
Q. At Aki we often speak of shitakoshirae, a Japanese term for the meticulous preparation that precedes a perfect moment. Beyond just mise en place, how does this Japanese concept of deep preparation manifest in your kitchen on a daily basis?
In my kitchen, shitakoshirae goes far beyond mise en place. It is the foundation of how we work. To me, it’s not just about chopping vegetables or portioning proteins in advance. It is about the fine details and discipline that allows everything to flow seamlessly when service begins. Everyday each station is set up with exact measurements, tools, and ingredients so that during service, there is no hesitation, only execution. This discipline creates consistency and speed without compromising quality. I make sure the team understands that preparation is not just a task, but a mindset. From butchery to sauce work, we invest the time in doing it right, so when the guest experiences the final dish, it feels effortless and refined. We plan not only for today’s service but for the days ahead; stocks, marinades, ferments, and pastry elements are prepared in cycles, so the kitchen is always ahead of demand. Proper preparation means respecting the product at every stage, storing it correctly, handling it with care, and preparing it in a way that brings out its best qualities. In essence, shitakoshirae is about discipline, respect, and anticipation. It’s what allows us to create a perfect moment for the guest.
Q. The menu features some extraordinary ingredients with a profound sense of history, like the 50-year-old sashimi soy. Could you share the story behind an ingredient like this? What does it mean to you as a chef to work with something that carries such a legacy of time and tradition?
A. Working with a 50 year old sashimi soy is humbling. It represents decades of patience, craftsmanship, and tradition. For me, it’s both a privilege and a responsibility. I need to treat it with respect, using it in a way that enhances a dish while honouring the history behind it. Ingredients like this remind me that cooking is not only about flavour, but also about carrying forward stories and legacies through food.
Q. A lot of London restaurants talk about ‘farm-to-table,’ but Aki has brought the farm to the table with eighty in-house modular farms. How does having this immediate access to living ingredients change your creative process and the final flavour on the plate?
A. Having eighty in-house modular farms changes everything. It brings immediacy and vibrancy to the way we cook. Harvesting Japanese herbs or seaweed moments before service means the flavours are at their peak: brighter, more aromatic, and truer to their natural character. Creatively, it allows me to design dishes around the ingredient’s purest expression, rather than adapting to what survives transport or storage. It also gives the team a deeper connection to the produce; we are not just using ingredients, we’re nurturing them, and that respect translates directly onto the plate.
Q. Aki’s identity is uniquely shaped by a ‘subtle Maltese soul.’ As a chef, how do you approach this delicate balance? Could you give an example of how you might introduce an echo of Malta into a dish without disrupting the integrity of its Japanese foundation?
A. Balancing Aki’s Japanese foundation with a subtle Maltese soul is about respect and restraint. I never want the Maltese element to overpower Aki’s Japanese identity, but rather to appear as a quiet echo that feels natural on the plate. These touches don’t disrupt the integrity of the Japanese technique or flavour profile, but they give the dish a sense of place connecting our guests to Malta while staying true to Aki’s DNA.
Q. You create modern Japanese cuisine within a grand, Grade II listed Georgian building. Does this historic, European setting—the soaring ceilings, the sense of history—influence the way you think about plating or the overall narrative of a dish?
A. Absolutely, the setting influences how I think about both the food and the experience. Cooking modern Japanese cuisine in a grand Georgian building is about creating harmony between two worlds: the precision and refinement of Japan with the elegance and history of Europe. The soaring ceilings and sense of heritage inspire me to plate with a touch of drama and scale, while keeping the balance and restraint that Japanese cuisine demands. In that way, the dishes not only respect their cultural origins but also feel at home within the grandeur of the space.
Q. When a guest finishes their meal and steps back out into Cavendish Square, what is the one feeling, taste, or memory you hope they carry with them from their experience of your cuisine?
A. What I hope they carry with them is a sense of harmony—flavours that linger because they were precise, balanced, and memorable, but also a feeling of being transported. I want guests to leave Cavendish Square not just remembering a dish, but the whole experience: the purity of Japanese technique, the subtle soul of Malta, and the care that went into every detail. If they step away with a lasting taste and a quiet sense that they’ve experienced something both refined and personal.
